No Cuy, for now

January 13...  After all of the movement towards eating cuy yesterday, I'm pleased that it was promptly forgotten today. 

Our morning began with a trip to the markets of Otavalo.  We toured the "food court" - which was unlike any food court we have back in the USA.  A tradition is to have an entire roasted pig on the counter and meat is cut from back, leaving the head as the last part to be eaten.  There was stall after stall filled with ripe fruits of all sizes... Guayabana, Mora, Pineapples, Tree Tomatoes, Cactus, Melons, Papaya, and at least 10 types of plantain and bananas.  There were ingredients for cooking that the group hadn't seen before, including Achiote - which is a red seed that you can buy as a powder, grains, or in cooking oil. 

A few blocks down from the food market is the Plaza de Ponchos where textiles, hats, and a wide assortment of tourist goods are sold.  We spent almost 2 hours there shopping for gifts for parents and friends back home.  Despite being filled with vendors, the place is quiet as the Otavaleños bargain without making a ruckus. 

We then packed into the bus to head up to Ali Shungu, which means GoodHeart in Quichua.  This is a foundation started by a gringo, Frank or Francisco, up in the hills surrounding Otavalo.  He and his wife started more than 20 years ago with a small export business, which evolved into a hotel, and now a foundation.  Frank is clearly taken with the lifestyle and the indigenous people here, and his foundation tries to be respectful and appropriate.  They have fixed the local water system, and have helped with medical issues.  Perhaps most importantly, they run a school for local children on their property.  Some of the students are interested in volunteering over the summer there.

After lunch at a cute roadside Hacienda, we made the short trip to Ilumán, which is known for Yachacs (Shamans) and hat making.  The guide Jose and I got out of the bus to find an available Yachac among the 5 or so that line the curve on the way out of the town.  We settled on our first stop, which was a small house with a hard-of-hearing Yachac and his family.  The daughter was in charge of everything, and she spoke rather loudly at her father to communicate with him.  As our group was too large to fit into his normal room, we instead set up in the waiting area.  We asked him for a "limpia" or cleansing for one of our students.  He agreed.

This proved to be the most involved shamanic ceremony we have seen in running the course over the past 10 years.  Not only did he blow smoke on our subject, Pause, he spit enormous quantities of alcohol and perfume on her.  Then he did something we have never seen before - he blew fire.  Not just a couple of times, but dozens of times.  It was clear from Pause's reactions that some of these puffs of fire were a bit too hot for comfort. 

Pause survived the event, but she was desperate to head back to the Hotel.  So the rest of the group went on to two museums, one for musical instruments and the other for textiles, while Pause, Renae and I went home in a taxi.

After dinner we had yet more entertainment.  We arranged a Vaca Loca (Crazy Cow) which is a paper and bamboo cow with fireworks strapped on it.  One of the fireworks was a spinning flyer which shot up an amazing distances in the air showering us with sparks. 

Our very long day came to a close with a local band playing traditional music.  Everyone danced. 

- Eric Fortune