Sorry about the lack of posts... internet was incredibly slow from the lodge. Alas, now the course is over.
We've had a fabulous journey... seems like we've been together for months, but it has only been 12 days.
The students are flying from Quito to Atlanta at this moment. We're drifting off to sleep here in Quito.
This was a particularly great bunch of students. We couldn't be more pleased with them! Thanks to everyone for your support.
- Eric Fortune
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Monday, January 18, 2010
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Towards Malarone
We've had a spectacular couple of days. I like the particular itinerary that we have here on the M/N Santa Cruz because we visit 2 of the 4 best landings in Galápagos - which is particularly good considering that one of the 4 locations, Genovesa, is now closed to boats that handle over 40 passengers. And this itinerary has excellent snorkeling.
This morning we stopped at Punta Espinosa on Fernandina - the youngest major island in the Galápagos. The wildlife was unusually wild today... We saw a tidepool completely dry out with minnows in it... the fish rapidly became food for Sally Lightfoot Crabs and Lava Lizards. We saw an iguana be captured and eaten by a Galápagos Hawk. We saw lots of competition and sexual behavior in the marine Iguanas. Finally we saw flightless cormorants capturing prey in the tidepools.
The afternoon was fantastic snorkeling along the 'nose' of Isabella. We saw penguins, sea lions, marine turtles, rays, and a myriad of fish and invertebrate species. One student snorkeled for the first time here... which is fun because the location has a 300 ft tall volcanic wall towering over up to 60 ft deep water to the east with the rest of the open Pacific Ocean to the west. Dramatic scene, to say the least.
Student journals are looking good. This is important to us, as we hope that the students document their experiences here in detail.
Today is also an important day because we begin the malaria prophylaxis for our upcoming visit to the rainforest. One malarone pill each day until our prescriptions run out...
- Eric Fortune
This morning we stopped at Punta Espinosa on Fernandina - the youngest major island in the Galápagos. The wildlife was unusually wild today... We saw a tidepool completely dry out with minnows in it... the fish rapidly became food for Sally Lightfoot Crabs and Lava Lizards. We saw an iguana be captured and eaten by a Galápagos Hawk. We saw lots of competition and sexual behavior in the marine Iguanas. Finally we saw flightless cormorants capturing prey in the tidepools.
The afternoon was fantastic snorkeling along the 'nose' of Isabella. We saw penguins, sea lions, marine turtles, rays, and a myriad of fish and invertebrate species. One student snorkeled for the first time here... which is fun because the location has a 300 ft tall volcanic wall towering over up to 60 ft deep water to the east with the rest of the open Pacific Ocean to the west. Dramatic scene, to say the least.
Student journals are looking good. This is important to us, as we hope that the students document their experiences here in detail.
Today is also an important day because we begin the malaria prophylaxis for our upcoming visit to the rainforest. One malarone pill each day until our prescriptions run out...
- Eric Fortune
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Galápagos
This morning we visited Punta Suarez on Española - one of the most interesting places in the Galápagos Islands. Although it was hot, we had a breeze for most of the visit, and were unusually lucky with wildlife. In particular, we saw several Galápagos Albatross - these animals reproduce on this island and nowhere else, but have usually gone out to sea by the end of December.
Everyone is feeling better now... although a few of the students (and instructors) have complained about the rocking and rolling in the boat. The seas are rougher than usual for this time of year - Personally, I love it!
The internet connection here is quite slow, so neither Ruth nor I seem to be able to upload photos.
- Eric Fortune
Everyone is feeling better now... although a few of the students (and instructors) have complained about the rocking and rolling in the boat. The seas are rougher than usual for this time of year - Personally, I love it!
The internet connection here is quite slow, so neither Ruth nor I seem to be able to upload photos.
- Eric Fortune
Friday, January 15, 2010
More details and PHOTOS!!!
As you may or may not know, I am on sabbatical this year. My family and I moved to Ecuador in August, and we'll be here until July. I am here primarily to conduct research - I study the behavioral biology of animals that occur here in Ecuador. I'm working at the Zoology Museum (QCAZ) at the Catholic University in Quito. My 10 year old daughter is going to elementary school here, and my wife, Ruth Richter, is taking a break from her psychiatric career for the year.
Anyhow, Ruth decided to write a blog about her experiences leading up to the sabbatical, and is continuing throughout the sabbatical. She has written an entry each and every day starting on January 1, 2009. Her blog can be found at http://movingtoecuador.blogspot.com/ - and she has far far more detail about her experiences than I have posted here.
Plus, she is dedicated to uploading photos every day. So, check it out!
- Eric Fortune
Anyhow, Ruth decided to write a blog about her experiences leading up to the sabbatical, and is continuing throughout the sabbatical. She has written an entry each and every day starting on January 1, 2009. Her blog can be found at http://movingtoecuador.blogspot.com/ - and she has far far more detail about her experiences than I have posted here.
Plus, she is dedicated to uploading photos every day. So, check it out!
- Eric Fortune
Finally, CUY!!!
January 14.
My apologies for not posting photos. I'm hoping to upload photos over the next few days, but we shall see. Believe me, we have plenty of entertaining pictures to share!
Yesterday was one of those days that I don't look forward to... about 1/3 of us became sick. Although we use trusted restaurants and are careful about food in general, this happens every few years. Thankfully whatever intestinal bug it was (I got it too) could be easily and rapidly treated with Ciproflaxin. And (how can I put this politely?) no puking.
Despite this, we had another excellent day. We started with a visit to a sustainable farm project run by a Japanese expatriot, Aya. She has married an Ecuadorian and has a very very cute daughter. She is part of a group called the "Sloth Club" which tries to slow life down to be more harmonious with nature and lower impact. One project was to have people in Tokyo turn off their electricity for a couple hours - which apparently was a big success as the largest building in Tokyo shut completely down for this event. She and her husband have created a large number of creative solutions - like a washing machine that runs via an attached bicycle, solar heating, Guinea Pig compost, and human composting. She is very amiable and suggested that the students can contribute in whatever small way they can... as KuruKindi did - a hummingbird that contributed a single drop of water to put out a forest fire.
We then drove down to visit a Rose plantation. We had a little trepidation entering the place, as we have heard many horrible things about mistreatment of workers and the use of noxious chemicals and pesticides. Nevertheless, flower production is a significant part of the Ecuadorian economy, and an interesting view into how international trade works here. We learned that there are two primary markets for Roses from Ecuador, Russia and the United States. However, these markets have very different demands - Russians demand very very long stems with small flowers, whereas the US market desires large flowers with shorter stems.
Our final destination was Intiñan (means 'brother of the son' in Quichua), which is kind of an amusement park on the Equator. They have a couple of real shrunken heads or "Tsantsas" - but they have all sorts of very fake and deceptive demonstrations on the Equator (which are amusing, but definitely not educational).
OK - more later - we're boarding the plane for Galápagos!!! [THREE HOUR PAUSE] And I'm back - I'm writing this using WiFi on the Santa Cruz in the Galápagos. In previous years the internet was free, but now it is rather expensive.
So - Intiñan was amusing, but everyone is pretty much worn out by then, and we were ready to nap on the bus ride back to the Hotel. Now - I failed to tell you earlier that several students had committed to trying Cuy, and our bus driver snuck out and purchases a roasted Guinea Pig cut into about 12 pieces. It had a distinctive smell as we carried it back to the Hotel.
We had the Hotel kitchen re-heat the Cuy and serve it during dinner. The students kept their promise and gobbled the little Cuy right up. Exactly four students got legs, and one student (unbeknownst to him until it was pointed out) got the head. Doug dug the cheek meat. Tasted somewhere between roasted pork and roasted chicken, so they said (I won't touch the stuff...).
Dr. Shapiro gave a lecture on poverty and its profound effects on health after dinner. After this lecture and our visits to CENIT, Ali Shungu, and KuriKindi, our students have a much clearer picture of how they can personally contribute to health and well-being. This group of students have been particularly interested in opportunities to work both here in Ecuador and at home - it has been inspiring.
- Eric Fortune
My apologies for not posting photos. I'm hoping to upload photos over the next few days, but we shall see. Believe me, we have plenty of entertaining pictures to share!
Yesterday was one of those days that I don't look forward to... about 1/3 of us became sick. Although we use trusted restaurants and are careful about food in general, this happens every few years. Thankfully whatever intestinal bug it was (I got it too) could be easily and rapidly treated with Ciproflaxin. And (how can I put this politely?) no puking.
Despite this, we had another excellent day. We started with a visit to a sustainable farm project run by a Japanese expatriot, Aya. She has married an Ecuadorian and has a very very cute daughter. She is part of a group called the "Sloth Club" which tries to slow life down to be more harmonious with nature and lower impact. One project was to have people in Tokyo turn off their electricity for a couple hours - which apparently was a big success as the largest building in Tokyo shut completely down for this event. She and her husband have created a large number of creative solutions - like a washing machine that runs via an attached bicycle, solar heating, Guinea Pig compost, and human composting. She is very amiable and suggested that the students can contribute in whatever small way they can... as KuruKindi did - a hummingbird that contributed a single drop of water to put out a forest fire.
We then drove down to visit a Rose plantation. We had a little trepidation entering the place, as we have heard many horrible things about mistreatment of workers and the use of noxious chemicals and pesticides. Nevertheless, flower production is a significant part of the Ecuadorian economy, and an interesting view into how international trade works here. We learned that there are two primary markets for Roses from Ecuador, Russia and the United States. However, these markets have very different demands - Russians demand very very long stems with small flowers, whereas the US market desires large flowers with shorter stems.
Our final destination was Intiñan (means 'brother of the son' in Quichua), which is kind of an amusement park on the Equator. They have a couple of real shrunken heads or "Tsantsas" - but they have all sorts of very fake and deceptive demonstrations on the Equator (which are amusing, but definitely not educational).
OK - more later - we're boarding the plane for Galápagos!!! [THREE HOUR PAUSE] And I'm back - I'm writing this using WiFi on the Santa Cruz in the Galápagos. In previous years the internet was free, but now it is rather expensive.
So - Intiñan was amusing, but everyone is pretty much worn out by then, and we were ready to nap on the bus ride back to the Hotel. Now - I failed to tell you earlier that several students had committed to trying Cuy, and our bus driver snuck out and purchases a roasted Guinea Pig cut into about 12 pieces. It had a distinctive smell as we carried it back to the Hotel.
We had the Hotel kitchen re-heat the Cuy and serve it during dinner. The students kept their promise and gobbled the little Cuy right up. Exactly four students got legs, and one student (unbeknownst to him until it was pointed out) got the head. Doug dug the cheek meat. Tasted somewhere between roasted pork and roasted chicken, so they said (I won't touch the stuff...).
Dr. Shapiro gave a lecture on poverty and its profound effects on health after dinner. After this lecture and our visits to CENIT, Ali Shungu, and KuriKindi, our students have a much clearer picture of how they can personally contribute to health and well-being. This group of students have been particularly interested in opportunities to work both here in Ecuador and at home - it has been inspiring.
- Eric Fortune
Thursday, January 14, 2010
No Cuy, for now
January 13... After all of the movement towards eating cuy yesterday, I'm pleased that it was promptly forgotten today.
Our morning began with a trip to the markets of Otavalo. We toured the "food court" - which was unlike any food court we have back in the USA. A tradition is to have an entire roasted pig on the counter and meat is cut from back, leaving the head as the last part to be eaten. There was stall after stall filled with ripe fruits of all sizes... Guayabana, Mora, Pineapples, Tree Tomatoes, Cactus, Melons, Papaya, and at least 10 types of plantain and bananas. There were ingredients for cooking that the group hadn't seen before, including Achiote - which is a red seed that you can buy as a powder, grains, or in cooking oil.
A few blocks down from the food market is the Plaza de Ponchos where textiles, hats, and a wide assortment of tourist goods are sold. We spent almost 2 hours there shopping for gifts for parents and friends back home. Despite being filled with vendors, the place is quiet as the Otavaleños bargain without making a ruckus.
We then packed into the bus to head up to Ali Shungu, which means GoodHeart in Quichua. This is a foundation started by a gringo, Frank or Francisco, up in the hills surrounding Otavalo. He and his wife started more than 20 years ago with a small export business, which evolved into a hotel, and now a foundation. Frank is clearly taken with the lifestyle and the indigenous people here, and his foundation tries to be respectful and appropriate. They have fixed the local water system, and have helped with medical issues. Perhaps most importantly, they run a school for local children on their property. Some of the students are interested in volunteering over the summer there.
After lunch at a cute roadside Hacienda, we made the short trip to Ilumán, which is known for Yachacs (Shamans) and hat making. The guide Jose and I got out of the bus to find an available Yachac among the 5 or so that line the curve on the way out of the town. We settled on our first stop, which was a small house with a hard-of-hearing Yachac and his family. The daughter was in charge of everything, and she spoke rather loudly at her father to communicate with him. As our group was too large to fit into his normal room, we instead set up in the waiting area. We asked him for a "limpia" or cleansing for one of our students. He agreed.
This proved to be the most involved shamanic ceremony we have seen in running the course over the past 10 years. Not only did he blow smoke on our subject, Pause, he spit enormous quantities of alcohol and perfume on her. Then he did something we have never seen before - he blew fire. Not just a couple of times, but dozens of times. It was clear from Pause's reactions that some of these puffs of fire were a bit too hot for comfort.
Pause survived the event, but she was desperate to head back to the Hotel. So the rest of the group went on to two museums, one for musical instruments and the other for textiles, while Pause, Renae and I went home in a taxi.
After dinner we had yet more entertainment. We arranged a Vaca Loca (Crazy Cow) which is a paper and bamboo cow with fireworks strapped on it. One of the fireworks was a spinning flyer which shot up an amazing distances in the air showering us with sparks.
Our very long day came to a close with a local band playing traditional music. Everyone danced.
- Eric Fortune
Our morning began with a trip to the markets of Otavalo. We toured the "food court" - which was unlike any food court we have back in the USA. A tradition is to have an entire roasted pig on the counter and meat is cut from back, leaving the head as the last part to be eaten. There was stall after stall filled with ripe fruits of all sizes... Guayabana, Mora, Pineapples, Tree Tomatoes, Cactus, Melons, Papaya, and at least 10 types of plantain and bananas. There were ingredients for cooking that the group hadn't seen before, including Achiote - which is a red seed that you can buy as a powder, grains, or in cooking oil.
A few blocks down from the food market is the Plaza de Ponchos where textiles, hats, and a wide assortment of tourist goods are sold. We spent almost 2 hours there shopping for gifts for parents and friends back home. Despite being filled with vendors, the place is quiet as the Otavaleños bargain without making a ruckus.
We then packed into the bus to head up to Ali Shungu, which means GoodHeart in Quichua. This is a foundation started by a gringo, Frank or Francisco, up in the hills surrounding Otavalo. He and his wife started more than 20 years ago with a small export business, which evolved into a hotel, and now a foundation. Frank is clearly taken with the lifestyle and the indigenous people here, and his foundation tries to be respectful and appropriate. They have fixed the local water system, and have helped with medical issues. Perhaps most importantly, they run a school for local children on their property. Some of the students are interested in volunteering over the summer there.
After lunch at a cute roadside Hacienda, we made the short trip to Ilumán, which is known for Yachacs (Shamans) and hat making. The guide Jose and I got out of the bus to find an available Yachac among the 5 or so that line the curve on the way out of the town. We settled on our first stop, which was a small house with a hard-of-hearing Yachac and his family. The daughter was in charge of everything, and she spoke rather loudly at her father to communicate with him. As our group was too large to fit into his normal room, we instead set up in the waiting area. We asked him for a "limpia" or cleansing for one of our students. He agreed.
This proved to be the most involved shamanic ceremony we have seen in running the course over the past 10 years. Not only did he blow smoke on our subject, Pause, he spit enormous quantities of alcohol and perfume on her. Then he did something we have never seen before - he blew fire. Not just a couple of times, but dozens of times. It was clear from Pause's reactions that some of these puffs of fire were a bit too hot for comfort.
Pause survived the event, but she was desperate to head back to the Hotel. So the rest of the group went on to two museums, one for musical instruments and the other for textiles, while Pause, Renae and I went home in a taxi.
After dinner we had yet more entertainment. We arranged a Vaca Loca (Crazy Cow) which is a paper and bamboo cow with fireworks strapped on it. One of the fireworks was a spinning flyer which shot up an amazing distances in the air showering us with sparks.
Our very long day came to a close with a local band playing traditional music. Everyone danced.
- Eric Fortune
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Cuy, Cuy, and more Cuy
Today was amusing.
Our bus headed north promptly at 8am. Our first stop was Calderon, a small town that specializes in colorful dough figurines. Most look like they would make for nice ornaments for Christmas trees. There are also street scenes, cute little buses, and this time there were bizarre toy monkey scenes. The monkeys were not made in Calderon - they were made out of plastic - and depicted unusual activities at a variety of medical professional offices. Dr. Richter and I purchased a couple of small paintings that were produced in a nearby town that depicted a cleansing by a Yachac in which a guinea pig is rubbed on the patient's body followed by ritual spitting. The second painting depicts the story of how a crafty bunny tricked a wolf causing it to fall to its death.
Packed up in the bus, we headed north again on the panamerican highway. We stopped to buy ChiriMoya, which is a fruit that we simply don't see in north america. Chiri means cold in Quichua and Moya means ball.
Next stop was Cochasquí, which is an array of pyramids and burial chambers. Our tour was interrupted a few times - first by a herd of llamas, next by interesting spiders in the ground, by worm poop (I kid you not), and finally by a house filled with guinea pigs. In between we learned about the history and construction of these pre-incan pyramids, and how these people completely covered the pyramids with dirt and grasses rather than let the Incas learn their secrets.
Box lunch at the Pyramids, and then again north towards CuiCocha.
Cui (or Cuy) in Quicha means guinea pig... and CuiCocha is a lake in a recent caldera (3000 years old). It is remarkably beautiful, with views out towards my favorite mountain in the world, Imbabura. As we were running late, we decided that we would not be able to make it to our final destination, Cotacachi. Cotacachi is a town that specializes in the production of finished leather goods such as jackets and purses. Instead, we hiked up and around the caldera of CuiCocha. This was more difficult than expected due to the altitude - over 10,000 feet above sea level.
Dinner and off to bed at Las Palmeras.
After all of our experiences with guinea pigs in one form or another today, there is a movement afoot to try this local delicacy tomorrow. Yum.
- Eric Fortune
Monday, January 11, 2010
Quito Tour, CENIT
No matter how much I plan or don't plan this course, things seem to just happen and work out in the end. Today was no exception.
Today we had a humane wake up of 7:30am with breakfast at 8 and a departure at 9. Too bad that the hotel did not make any wake up calls. Remarkably, everyone was ready on time, and we left the Hotel only a few minutes late.
The students drove up to the Basilica with Dr. Richter, Dr. Szlavezc, and Dr. Parker. I stayed back with two students, Scott and Peter, who were headed off to the rainforest to start studying the soil at Yasuní National Park. Peter is an alumni of this course - he took it as a freshman last year. Although it was touch and go for a while, Scott and Peter apparently have arrived at the research station with their enormous pile of equipment and car batteries.
My taxi reached the group just as they were distributing water bottles in the bus after their tour of the Basilica. Re-hydrated, we drove down the the historic colonial center of the city. We had a very nice tour led by an excellent guide, Jose Naranjo. We visited the gold church of La Compañia, the convent at San Francisco, and walked through the main squares.
After a pleasant lunch at the restaurant that is embedded within the Incan stones on which the San Francisco church sits, we boarded the bus for our 15 minute drive up the "Panecillo." This is a small bread-shaped hill with a large aluminum statue of the Virgin Mary which is visible throughout almost all of the city. The Panecillo divides the metropolis of Quito into two sections - north and south. Lining both sides are mountains and ravines, making for a skinny, banana-shaped city.
Our final visit of the day was special - we visited CENIT http://www.cenit-ecuador.org/ . This is a Catholic-run foundation that serves the needs of children that work on the streets, particular the girls that are most vulnerable. We were greeted by the head Nun, and then escorted by two volunteers, Marianne and Sherry. Sherry just graduated from McGill and runs the Adopt-a-Dream program, and Marianne, who hails from Great Britain, is the volunteer coordinator. They brought us to two markets, El Camal and Chiriyacu. I think that we were the first ever 30 person gringo tour of these two markets. CENIT has outreach programs at both markets, providing educational, medical, and other services to children who spend most of their time there. The approach is wholistic insofar as the programs try to work with the entire family to improve the outcomes for these children.
It was a moving visit, and Sherry managed to drive everyone to tears with a story about a particularly difficult case involving one of the young women they help. In previous years we've heard similar stories, and it has moved over 7 of our students to volunteer at CENIT - one who stayed there for well over two years. I am always amazed by their work, and hope that perhaps one of our students will be moved to volunteer there in the future. We were reminded, however, that we have poverty in our own back yard in Baltimore, and that volunteer work closer to home is also desperately needed.
At dinner it was clear that we wore everyone out. I'm hoping that the students are deciding to go to bed early - especially since we have another busy day tomorrow. Wake up call at 6:30, leaving for Cochasqui by 8!
- Eric Fortune
Today we had a humane wake up of 7:30am with breakfast at 8 and a departure at 9. Too bad that the hotel did not make any wake up calls. Remarkably, everyone was ready on time, and we left the Hotel only a few minutes late.
The students drove up to the Basilica with Dr. Richter, Dr. Szlavezc, and Dr. Parker. I stayed back with two students, Scott and Peter, who were headed off to the rainforest to start studying the soil at Yasuní National Park. Peter is an alumni of this course - he took it as a freshman last year. Although it was touch and go for a while, Scott and Peter apparently have arrived at the research station with their enormous pile of equipment and car batteries.
My taxi reached the group just as they were distributing water bottles in the bus after their tour of the Basilica. Re-hydrated, we drove down the the historic colonial center of the city. We had a very nice tour led by an excellent guide, Jose Naranjo. We visited the gold church of La Compañia, the convent at San Francisco, and walked through the main squares.
After a pleasant lunch at the restaurant that is embedded within the Incan stones on which the San Francisco church sits, we boarded the bus for our 15 minute drive up the "Panecillo." This is a small bread-shaped hill with a large aluminum statue of the Virgin Mary which is visible throughout almost all of the city. The Panecillo divides the metropolis of Quito into two sections - north and south. Lining both sides are mountains and ravines, making for a skinny, banana-shaped city.
Our final visit of the day was special - we visited CENIT http://www.cenit-ecuador.org/ . This is a Catholic-run foundation that serves the needs of children that work on the streets, particular the girls that are most vulnerable. We were greeted by the head Nun, and then escorted by two volunteers, Marianne and Sherry. Sherry just graduated from McGill and runs the Adopt-a-Dream program, and Marianne, who hails from Great Britain, is the volunteer coordinator. They brought us to two markets, El Camal and Chiriyacu. I think that we were the first ever 30 person gringo tour of these two markets. CENIT has outreach programs at both markets, providing educational, medical, and other services to children who spend most of their time there. The approach is wholistic insofar as the programs try to work with the entire family to improve the outcomes for these children.
It was a moving visit, and Sherry managed to drive everyone to tears with a story about a particularly difficult case involving one of the young women they help. In previous years we've heard similar stories, and it has moved over 7 of our students to volunteer at CENIT - one who stayed there for well over two years. I am always amazed by their work, and hope that perhaps one of our students will be moved to volunteer there in the future. We were reminded, however, that we have poverty in our own back yard in Baltimore, and that volunteer work closer to home is also desperately needed.
At dinner it was clear that we wore everyone out. I'm hoping that the students are deciding to go to bed early - especially since we have another busy day tomorrow. Wake up call at 6:30, leaving for Cochasqui by 8!
- Eric Fortune
Adventures on Arrival in Quito
Everyone is safe and sound in Hotel Sierra Madre in Quito. But we had our share of adventures on the way.
We had more than 3 hours layover in Atlanta airport. I didn't get a chance, but Dr. Parker and Dr. Shapiro found an exhibit with art from Zimbabwe that many of the students visited to pass the time. As you can see, the natives became restless...
Our flight was uneventful, but we were in one of those fabulous planes with full entertainment screens in each seat. I also enjoyed the wireless internet - I sent out tons of e-mails and had a Gmail chat with my older daughter, who was using the free wireless internet on a bus from Baltimore to New York. The internet connection went dead around when we were passing over Cuba, and never came back for the duration of the flight. Well worth it anyhow.
The immigration and customs process in Quito went pretty smoothly - although one student was delayed and ended up at the end of the line. We always go as a group, so this gave us some time to play again.
On our way out of the airport, Margaret went up to the upstairs bathrooms where she was immediately pickpocketed by a young boy who looked like he was selling sweets. The boy quickly absconded with her passport, but not with the cash that he was actually hoping for. After working with airport staff for a while, checking the kid (who of course had already passed the passport to some adult), we waited hoping that police might come by. Because the only exit from the area where she was robbed required passing right by us, the waiting was not actually for the police, but to give the robbers time to get rid of the passport in the bathroom area. Every 5 or 10 minutes one of the men dutifully went up the stairs to check on the status of things, and finally he came back down with the passport, telling us that one of the cleaning staff had found it in a garbage can.
After that miracle, more waiting was set up so that it would look like they were trying to get a police person to come by so that we could write a report, but after a while of nothing happening, the person announced that no police were available, and that we should go to the station in the morning to make a report if we wish. We will very likely make that report - called a denuncia.
Anyhow - we have the passport back in hand, which is absolutely fantastic. Plus, I think that the students will now take us more seriously when we talk about safety issues during our travels. Although it made for a very late bedtime, perhaps this incident was for the best. We shall see.
Wake up call in the morning at 7:30, breakfast at 8, and our departure for the city tour begins at 9.
- Eric Fortune
Drinks and sandwiches at 1:30am in the Hotel.
We had more than 3 hours layover in Atlanta airport. I didn't get a chance, but Dr. Parker and Dr. Shapiro found an exhibit with art from Zimbabwe that many of the students visited to pass the time. As you can see, the natives became restless...
Waiting for our flight in Atlanta.
Our flight was uneventful, but we were in one of those fabulous planes with full entertainment screens in each seat. I also enjoyed the wireless internet - I sent out tons of e-mails and had a Gmail chat with my older daughter, who was using the free wireless internet on a bus from Baltimore to New York. The internet connection went dead around when we were passing over Cuba, and never came back for the duration of the flight. Well worth it anyhow.
The immigration and customs process in Quito went pretty smoothly - although one student was delayed and ended up at the end of the line. We always go as a group, so this gave us some time to play again.
Humans as luggage.
On our way out of the airport, Margaret went up to the upstairs bathrooms where she was immediately pickpocketed by a young boy who looked like he was selling sweets. The boy quickly absconded with her passport, but not with the cash that he was actually hoping for. After working with airport staff for a while, checking the kid (who of course had already passed the passport to some adult), we waited hoping that police might come by. Because the only exit from the area where she was robbed required passing right by us, the waiting was not actually for the police, but to give the robbers time to get rid of the passport in the bathroom area. Every 5 or 10 minutes one of the men dutifully went up the stairs to check on the status of things, and finally he came back down with the passport, telling us that one of the cleaning staff had found it in a garbage can.
After that miracle, more waiting was set up so that it would look like they were trying to get a police person to come by so that we could write a report, but after a while of nothing happening, the person announced that no police were available, and that we should go to the station in the morning to make a report if we wish. We will very likely make that report - called a denuncia.
Anyhow - we have the passport back in hand, which is absolutely fantastic. Plus, I think that the students will now take us more seriously when we talk about safety issues during our travels. Although it made for a very late bedtime, perhaps this incident was for the best. We shall see.
Wake up call in the morning at 7:30, breakfast at 8, and our departure for the city tour begins at 9.
- Eric Fortune
Sunday, January 10, 2010
On our way to Quito
Today's departure was humane - most of the students met buses on campus at 9:15am, but our official meeting point and start for the course was the Delta counter at BWI at 10:00am. In previous years we've start at 5 or 6am!!
Delta seems to never get our check in right, and this year was no exception. The electronic kiosks could not be used for our checkins, so we were soon lined up for the agents. Things did go smoothly, and security lines were not as bad as I had imagined.

The next update will be from Quito. We don't expect to arrive at the Hotel until 1am!
- Eric Fortune
Delta seems to never get our check in right, and this year was no exception. The electronic kiosks could not be used for our checkins, so we were soon lined up for the agents. Things did go smoothly, and security lines were not as bad as I had imagined.
An experiment in reciprocal photography.

Keeping warm in the morning sun.
Gambling ring in BWI.
Our flight from Atlanta is at 6pm. To pass the time most of the students are visiting an exhibit of Zimbabwe art here at the airport.
The next update will be from Quito. We don't expect to arrive at the Hotel until 1am!
- Eric Fortune
Saturday, January 9, 2010
First day of lectures
Cold.
It is cold here in Baltimore.
Freezing.
We've got a fantastic group of students with a broad range of interests. This year we have fewer pre-meds and more International Relations than usual. Behavioral Biology is well represented, as is a new major "Global Environmental Change and Sustainability."
The lectures ranged from evolution to climate change, from geography to the fall of the Incas. 6 hours of torture for our long-suffering students.
More lectures Saturday...
- Eric Fortune
It is cold here in Baltimore.
Dr. Fortune gives his lecture with necessary winter jacket.
Freezing.
Our Happy Students
The lectures ranged from evolution to climate change, from geography to the fall of the Incas. 6 hours of torture for our long-suffering students.
Dr. Parker scaring the pants off of everyone as she describes global warming (while freezing).
More lectures Saturday...
- Eric Fortune
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Lectures begin tomorrow
We start tomorrow!
Changes are a constant feature of the Ecuador and Galápagos program...
Our lecture schedule has been changed, as have some of our activities in the Highlands. I'm expecting some 'interesting' surprises in the first few days of our travels - we shall see.
- Eric Fortune
Changes are a constant feature of the Ecuador and Galápagos program...
Our lecture schedule has been changed, as have some of our activities in the Highlands. I'm expecting some 'interesting' surprises in the first few days of our travels - we shall see.
- Eric Fortune
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Final Preparations
The final details for the 2010 Ecuador and Galápagos Islands course are being made. We are looking forward to a very interesting trip this year.
If you have any questions as you finish packing and preparing for the course, please let me know. Dr. Citti is available at the Office of Study Abroad, and I can be reached at my temporary cellphone number 316 258 7092.
In these final days before our departure, be sure to be careful about your health - getting sick right before departure is not fun.
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